Morayshire – historic land of legend

Posted in Famous landmarks, Geography, Historical articles, History, Legend, Mystery, Royalty, Scotland on Saturday, 26 January 2013

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This edited article about Morayshire originally appeared in Look and Learn issue number 110 published on 22 February 1964.

Elgin Cathedral burns, picture, image, illustration

The Wolf of Badenoch burns Elgin Cathedral

Sir Robert Gordon of Gordonstoun in Morayshire, sold his soul to the Devil. Then, overcome with horror at what he had done, he tried to save himself from the consequences of his action in a rather curious way. . . .

“Hamish,” said Sir Robert Gordon to the local stonemason, “Hamish, ye maun build me a house.”

“Aye, aye, Sir Robert,” answered the stonemason cautiously. “No doubt ye’ll be wanting some grand affair, wi’ great pillars and many windows, wi’ –”

“Tash, man, dinna presume! The house is to be circular – ye understand? Circular! For does not the circle protect us from a’ manner o’ harm and evil? Let me see some drawings, Hamish – drawings o’ a round house!”

And a round house was indeed built – a circular group of buildings in which Sir Robert Gordon could live free from the Devil’s claim to his soul, for even at the end of the seventeenth century the belief in witchcraft was strong. The circle was said to give protection from the powers of evil.

What happened to Sir Robert? Once the house was built, he was afraid to enter it. Calling for his horse, he rode furiously across the country – only to be slaughtered by a ghostly hound which pursued him there.

That is the story. The Round House still stands – which, people point out, proves the old tale.

Legend and history seem to be hopelessly intermixed in the story of Morayshire (or Elginshire, as it was once known). The name means “Land of the coastal folk” and the coast has certainly played an important part in that story.

In the eleventh century the coastline villages were pillaged time and again by the Norsemen who lived in the Orkney and Shetland Isles. Sigurd the Stout, Thorfinn the Mighty, were names that meant burning homesteads to the simple people – and humiliation to the Scots, who were defeated by Thorfinn at the Battle of Torfnessmore.

On that occasion the Scottish army was led by King Duncan – said to have been murdered by Macbeth in his bid for the throne. It is certainly true that Macbeth ruled this part of Scotland – but as for the murder, it seems to be another case of history and legend at odds again. The much maligned Macbeth did, however, expire in Morayshire, after a reign which did much good for northern Scotland. He died at Lumphanan, and a mound of stones called “Macbeth’s Cairn” is supposed to mark the spot.

Villains (real or legendary) and disasters go hand in hand in this north-eastern Scottish county. A particularly notable villain was “The Wolf of Badenoch,” son of Robert II of Scotland. He lived on an island in Lochindorb, the largest loch in Morayshire, and having quarrelled with the Bishop of Elgin, proceeded to burn down Elgin Cathedral in 1390.

Inspired by this action, “The Wolf of Badenoch” went on to burn down quite a few more religious buildings – and was excommunicated for his trouble.

Elgin Cathedral, now a semi-ruin – but still the most famous building in the town – went on to more disasters. In 1506 the great steeple, now rebuilt, toppled to the ground. Again it was rebuilt, to a height of 198 feet. Then, on Easter Day, 1711, it collapsed again.

One of the country’s worst natural disasters occurred over 250 years ago. In 1694 a great storm rose, and its high winds and lashing rain swept over the county in great force – particularly over the rich estate of Culbin, known as “The Granary of Moray.”

When the storm died, the estate of Culbin was no more. The winds had blown a great mass of sand over its fertile fields to bury mansion, church and houses for ever. Today the Culbin Sands, a waste three miles long and two miles wide, are all that remains of the Granary of Moray.

Despite these “acts of God” Morayshire has large areas of rich soil in the lowlands and along the coast, where oats and barley are grown, and some of the finest short-horned cattle in Britain are reared.

There are no big cities nor large industries in the county, but much of the most important product – whisky – comes from the largest town – Elgin. This is the county town, with a population of around 11,000. Like Forres and Rothes, other important towns, Elgin is the main shopping centre for many miles around. It provides a vital source of employment in and around the town for many of the 50,000 people who live in Morayshire – woollen mills, sawmills, iron foundries and quarries all play their part.

On the coast fishing is important – and the Fleet Air Arm have a big base at Lossiemouth, birthplace of Britain’s first Labour Prime Minister, Ramsay MacDonald.

Just outside Fochabers, one of the prettiest and best-kept villages in Scotland, is the home of the Duke of Richmond and Gordon. Two of the most famous families in Morayshire are the Gordons and the Duffs.

Perhaps the most well-known part-time resident, however, is His Royal Highness Prince Charles, whose school at Gordonstoun is one of the most unusual in Britain.

It was founded by Dr. Kurt Hahn, who was expelled from Germany by Hitler.

Starting from small beginnings – and little money – the school now has more than four hundred boys. Great emphasis is placed on the development of character – and the best use is made of the hills for climbing, the sea for sailing, and the open spaces around the school for sports.

The boys run their own fire-brigade. On stormy nights they are out helping the coastguards keep watch for ships in trouble. They play hard, work hard, and are made to become self-reliant and hardy.

Dr. Hahn’s ideal was to make boys into men. At Gordonstoun they do. But part of the credit, at least, must go to Morayshire.

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